Deciding on a Fixed Blade Broadhead

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Fixed Blade Broadheads for bow hunting!
Grim Reaper Hades Broadhead 1 3/16-Inch Cut Fixed Blade, 100 Grain


When searching for the best fixed blade broadheads I found the Grim Reaper Hades was the most accurate, quietest flying and deepest penetrating. It’s not your ordinary fixed blade broadhead. This broadheads blades are sharpened to cut whether going in or out, with a bone crushing solid stainless steel v-notch tip and 4 point blade locking system making the Hades the best flying, best penetrating fixed blade in my experiance!
Click here to try the Grim Reaper Hades Broadhead 1 3/16-Inch Cut Fixed Blade, 100 Grain

A bad choice in a broadhead can mean you being depressed about that prize deer that got away and was never found after being hit with a good shot from a poor choice broadhead. Here are a few tips I’ve learned along the way that helps me make the right choice in fixed blade broadheads.

Bowhunters have some very powerful bows available to them nowadays. But even with those powerful bows used with a mid-weight arrow and speeds beyond 265 fps, some fixed blade broadheads won’t do well in flight without fine tuning it. Not very often does a bow hunter take the time to tune their broadhead. But they should take the time to sit and play with testing and tuning the broadheads and arrows to get the perfect aerodynamics.

Accuracy: Use three fixed blade broadheads on three arrows making sure they are seated and aligned to the arrow shaft perfectly, and three arrows with field points. Then start group shooting at a distance of 40 to 50 yards with three field points, then with the three fixed blade broadheads. If the broadheads are off more than 5 or 6 inches from the field point groups, you probably don’t want to use those broadheads for hunting. With a well-tuned bow and perfectly matched fixed blade broadheads, you should easily group within 5 or 6 inches and be very close to the impact points of the field points. A general rule of thumb is that shorter fixed blade broadheads can be pushed faster with less planning problems.

Durability and Strength: Durability is very important in fixed blade broadheads. You’ll already be putting some wear on the broadhead by checking for accuracy during practice and other such hunting preparation. It is wise to change the blades of your broadhead after accuracy tests. Fixed blade broadheads made of poor quality aluminum won’t last thorough pre-hunt practice. Broadheads with all-steel or titanium ferrules are far better and will last much longer. A good test for the durability and strength of fixed blade broadheads is to shoot them through a piece of sheet metal that is about an eighth of an inch thick. Any signs of damage here such as blades dislodging or coming off will tell you if the broadhead can be depended on during a hard hit against a bone.

Penetration: A fixed blade broadhead should go in deep and stay in line with the point of entry no matter what angle. Wild game have a tendency to twist or jump right after the arrow is released even when the best shot is chosen, so the bowhunter should plan for the worst. You can test the design of the fixed blade broadhead by shooting it into plywood at different angles. Broadheads with slim noses and less angle to the blade seem to work better, however this may need to be adjusted depending on the arrow speed. Broadheads that have more of an angle to the blade tend to cause problems because the blade closest to the target hits before the point and the whole broadhead and arrow is deflected.

Sharpness: Rub a piece of cowhide against the blade of your fixed blade broadhead. If it doesn’t cut with just a light touch, it’s too dull. A sharp broadhead blade will cause the deer to bleed excessively and that loss of blood means a quicker kill. Fixed blade broadheads with replaceable blades are preferred however there are some broadheads with non-replaceable blades that work well, and can be re-sharpened successfully.

Cutting Surface: For better and more effective wound channels, a broadhead with 3 inches of sharp cutting surface is best. Such fixed blade broadheads generally come with fairly wide cutting widths. A broadhead has to travel through several layers of tough tissue that will dull the blades before getting to the vital areas which is slick and rubbery, but contain many blood vessels. It takes a fixed blade broadhead that will stand up to those first layers, which likely will include passing through the ribs, and remain sharp in order to cut those vital areas and open up those blood vessels. And a dull broadhead blade can cause tissue to swell and seal up which will hinder bleeding.

Concentricity: Take your fixed blade broadhead and screw it on an arrow, if everything is correct, you should be able to spin it on the broadheads tip like a top with very little wobble. If too much wobble is present, try the broadhead on a different arrow. All-steel and titanium fixed blade broadheads tend to be easier to match with and arrow shaft because of their solid one piece tip and ferrule design. Aluminum ferrule Broadheads that use a screw-on or press fit tip tend to need more mixing and matching.

I hope this article about fixed blade broadheads has been helpful in helping you find the right broadheads for your bowhunting needs. It can be a very rewarding and satisfying to bowhunt with the right fixed blade broadhead. Thank you for reading. And please take time to visit my sponsors by clicking on their banners. Each carries some great fixed blade broadheads or other bowhunting gear that will help make your bowhunting experience more successful.

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